From Backwaters to Shopping Malls: Living the Real Kerala

We’re taking India much more slowly than we would on a tour, but there’s still so much to absorb — the sights, sounds, smells and surprises of everyday life.

Getting Around

Uber has become our Kerala lifeline. Book online, know the price, track your driver and usually be on your way within five minutes. For shorter journeys, we jump into a local auto-rickshaw, commonly known as a tuk-tuk. ₹50–100 will get us to most places, although explaining where we want to go can sometimes be an adventure in itself! A screenshot of our destination usually does the trick.

English speaking drivers have the same questions: “Where are you from?”, “Do you like Kerala?” and “What are your plans?” Many also offer their number in case we need a car again. Friendly, air-conditioned and reliably getting us from A to B — what’s not to like?

The Art of Patience

One thing we’re discovering is that making arrangements here can sometimes take a little more patience than we’re used to. You can have a lovely conversation, get an enthusiastic “yes, of course!” and then find that nothing much happens without a few follow-up requests!

We’re also trying to master the famous Indian head wobble. Is it yes, no, maybe, or simply “I understand”? We’re still not entirely sure, but we’re getting better at reading the signs!

Then there’s the “10 minutes, sir” rule. It’s best to treat this as a rough estimate rather than a promise — ten minutes easily becomes thirty. And sometimes, even with the best intentions, things simply don’t happen!

We’re learning to relax, be flexible and go with the flow. After all, patience is part of the adventure.

Backwaters, Fishing Nets and a Fish-Fearing Friend

Knowing how much I love the backwaters, a little research led us to Joseph, who was supposed to be waiting for us by the water. Or so we thought!

Our car pulled up, and we quickly discovered that the bridge we needed to cross was under construction. Somehow, this little detail had been omitted from the arrangements! With nowhere to go, we made a quick call to Joseph, who appeared from nowhere on his moped and led us across the construction site. Just another day in Kerala!

Once safely across, we climbed aboard our small boat and set off through the narrow canals, past mangroves, to see everyday life unfold in this beautiful part of the world.

Our first stop was Garlic Island, a man-made island inhabited by fishing families living in simple houses — many with satellite dishes on their roofs. It’s a striking sight and a reminder that modern life and traditional ways of living often sit side by side here.

Back on the boat, we passed women preparing the morning’s prawn catch for market, while others washed clothes or bathed by the water. Everything moved at a wonderfully tranquil pace.

Next, we met a local fish farmer who had formerly been captain of one of the famous snake boats — a prestigious role in his community. Every August, Alleppey hosts its spectacular snake boat races, with around 130 young men paddling each boat. Definitely one for the list next time!

He took us behind his house to show us his small fish farm and demonstrate how he cast his nets. He even placed a fish in my hand after putting it into a temporary ‘sleep’ using a pressure point. They can stay like this for around ten minutes before needing to be back in the water.

What I hadn’t realised was quite how terrified Lottie is of fish! She took one look, leapt back about ten feet in a single jump and made it perfectly clear there was no chance of her holding one — or even getting near it.

After some refreshing tender coconut water, cut straight from the tree in front of us, and a lesson in performing impressive pull-ups from a 70-year-old, we climbed back aboard and headed to Joseph’s home, where his wife had prepared the most amazing lunch for us.

It was a beautiful morning, seeing a side of Kerala you simply can’t experience from the road — although perhaps next time, we’ll check for fish phobias before booking the tour!

Bad Planning!!

A couple of days earlier, we’d stumbled across a little gem for watching the sunset over the backwaters. A tiny heritage hotel with a licensed bar — surely the perfect spot to end the day with a gin and tonic as the sun went down? A tuk-tuk ride costing just 50p and we were there. What could possibly go wrong?

We hadn’t accounted for Kerala’s alcohol rules!

The first day of the month is a dry day in Kerala, when alcohol sales are restricted. We were told this was linked to payday and the desire to discourage people from spending their wages on drink rather than taking them home to their families.

Kerala also has its toddy shops, selling toddy — a traditional alcoholic drink made from fermented coconut flower sap. It’s collected by skilled tappers who climb the palms, and the taste? Saying it tastes like old boots really doesn’t do it justice!

So, no gin and tonic for us. Instead, we watched the sun set over the backwaters with a lime soda in hand.

Not quite the evening we’d planned, but it was still a magical moment to savour. Sometimes, the best experiences come with a little unintended improvisation!

A Different Kind of Dentist Visit

Week two began with another visit to Dr Dileep, my dentist, to finish the repair work. Once again, I was gripping the arms of the chair, although thankfully it didn’t actually hurt! I left with a full set of teeth, a slightly goofy smile and a mouth that felt rather full — all at a fraction of the price back home. Result!

I thought my visits to the dentist were finally over!

The next day, Dr Dileep invited us to the official opening of his new dental practice with his wife, Ranjitha, also a dentist. Not another appointment, thankfully!

Following our earlier observations about Indian timekeeping, would we arrive at 10 am as invited, turn up fashionably late or rock up at midday? And what on earth do you wear to a dentist’s opening in Kerala?

We arrived at 10 am to the sound of traditional Indian drummers playing with incredible energy. How they stay perfectly in time and finish together on the beat is beyond us! The noise was so impressive that my iPhone started sending alarming notifications about sound levels and potential hearing damage.

As the only non-Indians there, we were treated like VIPs and given front-row seats. Dr Dileep and Ranjitha accompanied the local MP into reception for a blessing involving oil, candles and flowers.

Ceremonies and blessings are an important part of life here. Even for those who aren’t particularly religious, they remain a meaningful way to mark a new beginning, bringing family and friends together to share the occasion — and, of course, enjoy some food and a get-together!

Before leaving with his official police escort, the young, charismatic MP came over for a chat. In fact, we seemed to be the only guests he spoke to! Having spent time in England and still having friends there, he was genuinely interested in where we were from and what had brought us to Kerala.

What touched us most was the warmth of the welcome. We’re conscious that Britain’s history in India is complicated, which made being told how pleased they were to have English guests at such an important occasion particularly meaningful. It was a lovely reminder that human connections can reach beyond history, through simple kindness, curiosity and a willingness to welcome one another.

A Little Taste of Home

For all our adventures in Kerala, there are still some home comforts we’re not prepared to sacrifice! We simply had to watch The Traitors, so I came to the rescue with screen-sharing from my phone to the homestay’s humongous TV. We had several episodes ready to binge-watch!

There’s something rather amusing about spending the day immersed in Indian life, then settling down in the evening to watch a bunch of celebrities plotting and scheming. Some habits travel with you! Not quite a Bollywood movie, but certainly plenty of drama!

A Side of India We Hadn’t Seen

That afternoon, we ventured out to one of Kochi’s commercial shopping centres, and it gave us a glimpse of a side of India we hadn’t really experienced for ourselves before.

Kerala has a character all of its own, with one of India’s highest literacy rates, a strong political tradition shaped by the Communist movement and trade unions, a large Christian community, and an abundance of natural resources — from spices, rubber and pineapple plantations to fish, backwaters and tourism.

The shopping centre was full of young, middle-class Indians in jeans and T-shirts, meeting friends for lunch in the food hall or heading off to watch a Western film at the cinema. The shops included Marks & Spencer, H&M and Accessorize. It felt a world away from some of the places we’d visited on previous trips.

Of course, we know this side of India exists — we just hadn’t experienced it for ourselves. After years of travelling around the country, it’s fascinating to see everyday life from a different perspective. And let’s be honest, M&S isn’t usually top of your list when you come to India on holiday, but it didn’t stop Lottie embracing the idea and adding to the Indian economy again!

And What About Goa and Those Overnight Trains?

Yes, we know! In our message we promised tales of Goa and overnight trains. But so much has happened in between that we’ve barely had time to catch our breath, let alone write it all down and not miss all the detail!

Those adventures will have to wait until the next instalment. There’s plenty more to come from Living India — and if the last few weeks are anything to go by, we certainly won’t be short of stories!